Tag Archives: crochet technique

Safety Eyes for Amigurumi – A Few Things I’ve Learned

I use safety eyes in a lot of my amigurumi, and over the years I’ve ended up with quite a collection – different sizes, shapes and colours, some plain black and others a little more realistic.

They’re only a small part of an amigurumi, but they can completely change its face. Even moving the eyes by one stitch can make a surprising difference.

And then, of course, there comes the scary part – when you have to commit and put the washers on. Once that’s done, changing your mind isn’t quite so easy.

So I thought I’d share a few things I’ve learned from using them – as well as something I discovered while I was actually writing this post.


Choosing and positioning the eyes

I don’t really have a rule for which size eye to use. I normally try a couple and see which looks right.

Before putting the washers on, I insert both eyes and move them around until I’m happy with the position. Sometimes it’s only a matter of moving them one stitch closer together, or a row higher or lower, but it can completely change the expression.

I also prefer to have some stuffing in the head at this stage. The final shape can make quite a difference to how the eyes sit.

Something else I do quite often is take a photo before committing. I don’t know why, but sometimes I don’t notice that something is slightly off until I see it in a photograph. It’s a useful little trick when you’ve been staring at the same face for too long.

Some of the safety eyes I’ve collected over time, together with the cupped plastic washers I use.


Different eyes give very different results

Plain black eyes are probably the ones I use most often, but there are lots of other options.

I have round and oval ones in different sizes, coloured ones, and some with an iris around the black centre. The brown ones, for example, can give a much more realistic-looking eye.

The brown iris gives a very different look from a plain black safety eye.

Some safety eyes also have a clear or transparent area around the black centre. I like these because you can change the effect yourself by putting a piece of felt behind the transparent part. It means you can experiment with colour without needing a different pair of eyes every time. A little piece of blue, green, brown or whatever suits the character will show through the clear part of the eye.

Felt can also become part of the eye itself. On my penguin, I used white felt that was deliberately larger than the safety eye. Instead of being hidden behind it, the felt shows all the way around and gives the eye a white border, which helps it stand out against the black crochet.

Here I’ve deliberately left the white felt showing around the safety eye.

The felt doesn’t have to be a perfect circle either. You can change the shape, make it oval or slightly pointed, and play around until you get the expression you want.

Just do all that playing around before the washer goes on!


And then there’s the washer…

This is something I’ve wondered about for quite a while. Most of my safety eyes come from China in larger packs. The washers I’ve always received with them are the little translucent cupped ones you can see in the photograph above. There are no instructions.

Which leaves one rather obvious question:

Which way round is the washer supposed to go?

Look online and you’ll find both answers. Some people put the domed side towards the eye; others put it the other way round.

For a long time, I’ve been fitting mine with the flat side towards the eye and the dome facing away. And then, while writing this post, I decided to have another play with them.


The tool I had almost given up on

Some time ago I bought a tool specifically for attaching safety eyes.

I thought it would save my fingers, particularly when I was attaching washers that needed quite a bit of pressure.

It didn’t quite work out that way. Every time I tried using it, it seemed to break the stem of the safety eye. I have quite a few different sizes of eyes and the stems are all fairly long, so I concluded that the stems were simply too long for the tool.

But while I was working on this article, I decided to experiment again. This time I turned the washer around so that the domed side was facing towards the eye.

And it sort of worked! It’s still not perfect, and you have to be careful when applying pressure as it doesn’t need much to push the washer over the ridges on the stem – the washer actually travelled down the stem instead of the stem simply snapping. So perhaps the problem wasn’t the length of the stem after all – or at least, not entirely.

Does this mean that the domed side is definitely the correct way to fit every cupped safety-eye washer? I don’t know. Mine are unbranded, they don’t come with instructions, and I’m certainly not going to claim I’ve settled a debate that seems to have been going on amongst amigurumi makers for years.

What I have discovered is that with my washers and my tool, putting the domed side towards the eye works much better.

I’m going to keep experimenting with it.


One extra thing I do

Once I’ve got the washer firmly in place, I usually take one extra step.

I carefully use a lighter to soften just the very end of the plastic stem and then flatten the softened tip slightly behind the washer. I’ve been doing this for quite some time. For me, it gives an extra little physical stop behind the washer and a bit more reassurance that it isn’t going to work its way back over the end of the stem. This isn’t something that came from the manufacturer’s instructions – as I said, I don’t actually have manufacturer’s instructions for mine. It’s simply something I do with my own amigurumi.

If you decide to try something similar, obviously be very careful. I only soften the very tip of the stem and keep the heat well away from the yarn and stuffing. Different plastics may also react differently to heat, so it’s not something I’d treat as a necessary part of fitting a safety eye.

Come to think of it, if I start attaching the washer with the domed side towards the eye, softening just the tip of the stem may become much harder, as the washer will be very much in the way. More experimentation needed, for sure!


A note if you’re making for young children

Despite the name, using “safety eyes” doesn’t automatically make a handmade toy suitable for a baby or very young child.

The washer makes the eye difficult to pull from the stem, but it’s still a small plastic component attached through crocheted fabric. Crochet can stretch and, with enough wear or damage, small parts can potentially come loose.

If I’m making something for a baby or very young child, I prefer to embroider or crochet the eyes instead.


Take your time with the eyes

If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s not to rush this part.

I’ll try different sizes, move the eyes around, add some stuffing, look at the face from different angles and sometimes take a photo before I decide.

I’ve already spent hours crocheting the thing. Another few minutes getting its expression right isn’t going to hurt.

And only when I’m happy do the washers go on.

Because then there’s really no going back… I must confess, I have a number of heads lying around that I’ve had to abandon simply because I didn’t spend enough time getting the eyes right.

“Bumble bee” mask

Hello all!

Who would have thought a year ago that masks would become staple wardrobe items?! There are so many different cloth masks available – plain ones, printed ones, even some bejewelled and lacy ones. Still, sometimes, it’s hard to find the perfect mask to go with your outfit…..and if you don’t want to make one from scratch, why not upgrade yours?

Here’s a one-of-a-kind “bumble bee” mask. I crocheted the yellow design directly onto a shop-bought black fabric mask using crochet thread and a 0.6 mm hook, to go with a black and mustard outfit.

Hope I’ve inspired you! i Look forward to seeing some of your creations.

Froggie Bonnet Bonanza – Free Pattern!!

Hey all!

This hat is such a hit that I’ve made a whole bunch more in different colours! What colour will you wear ? I call dibs on the red one – ha ha ha!

I would like to give a shout-out to my model, Ms Halle “Bearry” – she has been most cooperative and professional! Don’t you think she rocks these bonnets?

Here is the pattern if you want to make your own!

I used the Horatio Cool Bonnet pattern from Lovely Loops as the base for the bonnet:

Horatio Cool Bonnet – Free Pattern →

The frog eyes and straps are my own additions, and I’ve included my patterns for them below. The instructions use US crochet terms. I used DK yarn and a 4 mm hook.

The eyes & straps patterns are my own and here they are (using US Terms). I used DK yarn and a size 4mm hook.

Terms:

CH – Chain

SC – Single Crochet

DC – Double Crochet

HDC – Half Double Crochet

SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together

DC2TOG – Double Crochet 2 Together

SS – Slip Stitch

THE EYES

Round 1: Using black yarn, in a magic loop, and make 8 HDC. Join with SS. and cast off. (8 HDC)

Round 2: Join white yarn into any HDC made in Round 1 and make 2 DC into each HDC from the previous round all the way around. Join to the first DC with SS. (16 DC). Fasten off. (16 DC). Cast off.

Round 3: Using yarn in the colour you made your bonnet, join yarn into any DC with CH. 2SC into same stitch, SC into next stitch. *2SC into next DC, SC into next DC* all the way round and join with SS. (24 SC)

Rounds 4-5 : CH 2, DC in each SC from last round, join with SS.

Round 6: CH 1, * SC2TOG, SC * all the way round and join with SS (16 stitches)

At this point, stuff the eye with stuffing (it could be fiberfill, cotton or yarn bits). I don’t like to firmly pack mine as I like the eyes to be a bit squidgy – but it’s entirely up to you how you decide to do yours.

Round 7: CH 1, DC2TOG all the way round and join with SS (8 stitches)

Round 8: CH 1, DC2TOG all the way round and join with SS (4 stitches)

At this point, if you see that there is still a bit of a gap that needs closing, just thread the tail into a needle and sew the hole closed.

You will need to make 2 of these and then stitch them onto the bonnet.

THE STRAPS

For the straps, I simply made 101 CH, and then from 2nd CH stitch from the hook, made HDC in each CH to the end. Cast off and sew in the ends. I made 2 of these and simply threaded them into each corner of the border of the bonnet and tied a simple knot 🙂 You could, of course, use a different method.

Have a great time making these hats – and why not share a selfie modelling your creation!

Froggie Bonnet

Hey all!

I’ve been awfully quiet lately because I have been very busy working on my biggest project to date – and it is now done! But, more on that in a future post – after I take some good photos – so stay tuned and check back soon!

This week, my daughter showed me a really cute frog hat she came across for sale online and asked me if I could make one for her. Of course! I’m always up for a challenge and after “frogging it” a few times (pun totally intended – ha ha!) here it is! I really had fun making this and will be making some more 🙂 

Some notes on the design: firstly, it is 100% crochet, including the ribbing you see in the photo. It’s quite common to see ribbing in knitting projects, and for all you “crocheters”, who also knit, the concept is the same. I’ll try to describe it here. I used HDC – Half-double crochet (US terms).  Here is an example of how to do this –  you can adapt to your own projects.  To start this, you need a foundation row, so let’s say we have a row of 6 DC (Double crochet) already done. Here are the following rows:

Row 1: CH2, Repeat (FPHDC {Front Post HDC}, BPHDC {Back Post HDC}) x 3.  Turn.
Row 2: CH2, Repeat (BPHDC, FPHDC) x 3. Turn.
Rows 3 onwards : Repeat from Row 1 until you reach the desired length.

Simple! Might be an idea to experiment with using DC instead of HDC – let me know how you get on. Till then, peace out folks!