Update — September 2026: I originally shared this project in 2020, when the Seaside Wrap pattern was available free. The pattern is no longer available free, but I’ve kept this post as part of my crochet archive and to share my version of the wrap.
I came across this beautiful boho-inspired wrap and decided to make my own version. I used a different yarn and hook size, which explains the difference in size from the original — but I loved how it turned out!
As you can see, it can be worn 2-ways:
1 – over the shoulders as a wrap,
2 – as a skirt-wrap – perfect for the beach.
The original design is the Seaside Wrap. The pattern is no longer available free, but you can still find the pattern page on Ravelry here: Seaside Wrap pattern
Hope this gives you a little inspiration for your own summer crochet projects. 😊
Hey everyone! Hope you are all enjoying summer and safe! I might have mentioned once or twice, or a hundred times that I love winter – I am totally a winter person. I love being able to snuggle with soft, warm woolly things – so it is no surprise that I make a lot of winter projects.
Firstly, a little disclaimer about the title of this post and the name of this pattern i.e. “The Virus Shawl” – this name and pattern has been around for years and has nothing to do with COVID-19.
I have made a few shawls so far, but it’s always been a challenge to properly showcase these without a model. I have asked politely, then begged and even tried to bribe my lovely daughter into being my model – but with no luck. So, I now am a proud owner of a mannequin!
Here is one of the shawls that I made. There are several free versions of the Virus Shawl pattern available online. If you’d like to try making one yourself, Hobbii has a free version with a detailed visual guide and video tutorials:
Hi all! I’m really pleased to share with you photos of the completed lap blankets. It was great fun and to be honest, I’ve been feeling a bit at a loose end now that these are over.
I will definitely use some parts of this pattern by Jane Crowfoot for other projects, such as cushion covers, but more on that when I actually do make them!
While I do have some smaller projects on the go, however, I am now on the lookout for the next big one….if anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to message me!
If you’d like to see where this project started, including details of the pattern and my progress along the way, have a look at my original Fruit Garden CAL post →
The crochet hook is such a simple implement and pretty much the only tool with which you can fully create simple or complex projects. But have you ever wondered about its history? Where did this originate from? Who invented it? I sure have, and I can say, that scouring the net for a definitive answer has left me wanting. Nonetheless, here I will share with you what information I have found about the history of the crochet hook, as well as about the variety of hooks we have around today.
I’m sure that if you are a crocheter, it’s more than likely that you own more than one crochet hook – in fact, many enthusiasts have entire collections. But how do they differ? Do you really “need” all those crochet hooks?
The word “crochet” originates in the French language and means “little hook”. But it doesn’t mean that crochet as a craft originated in France. In fact, while historical evidence including from archaeological discoveries and historical documents about fabrics crafted using techniques like embroidery, weaving & knitting from as far back as the 11th Century have been found, the same cannot be said of crochet – its history is not clear and no one is quite sure when or where crochet started. Researchers have different theories on where it originated, some suggesting origins in Arabia, or China or even South America. It would then have possibly spread to Europe through trade routes. Nonetheless, researchers do agree that it is only in the 1800s that they find convincing evidence of crochet in Europe.
Enough about the history – let’s move to the actual hooks themselves.
Size matters
Crochet hooks come in a wide range of sizes. Size can be denoted by letters and numbers (typically used in US) or in millimetres (Refer to the conversion chart below, courtesy of www.crochet.com). The choice of which size to use is often determined by the yarn. In fact, most yarn will indicate on its label the recommended size to use. Sometimes, however, the choice will be dictated by the pattern you are following. In addition, it will depend a lot on your stitch tension – and you may need to use a different hook size. But, it really is up to you, and you should use whatever hook you feel most comfortable with! I do a lot of projects using DK yarn, so my favourite and most frequently used hook size is 4.0mm (G-6).
Which Material?
Long ago, before the time when you could just nip to your local craft shop to buy a crochet hook, I can imagine anyone who wanted to crochet having to fashion a hook out of whatever materials were available – so people probably would have used animal bones, fishbones, horn, wooden twigs/sticks, or some wire.
Today, you can easily get a hold of ready-made crochet hooks made of all sorts of materials – metallic ones made of aluminium or steel, wooden (bamboo) ones or plastic ones. There are designer hooks which have beautifully crafted handles made of glass, ceramic, even plastic. Some have a soft rubber grip for comfort (ergonomic hooks). There is no end to the variety you can find. Personally, I only use the aluminium and steel hooks and have been doing so for as long as I remember. I tried using an ergonomic one with a “comfortable” grip – but couldn’t get used to it and actually found it rather uncomfortable! But, that’s just me – friends who also crochet would swear by the ergonomic hooks! I do, however want to invest in a handcrafted hook one day, as I think they are absolutely stunning!
Types of Hooks
The type of hook you choose will depend on your preference, but here are a few things to keep in mind.
Steel Hooks – usually the smallest sized hooks are steel hooks and often used for crocheting with fine thread/yarn , such as that used for doilies
Aluminium Hooks – these come in a wide range of sizes. They are relatively lightweight and allow you to crochet quickly and smoothly.
Plastic Hooks – available in a wide range of sizes including jumbo size. They are made out of hollowed out plastic allowing for them to be lightweight.
Bamboo Hooks – these are available in a mid-range of sizes. The wood is warm to the touch and comfortable.
Tunisian Hooks – these are used in Tunisian crochet. They are longer than the regular hooks, and some even have a hook at both ends.
Ergonomic Hooks – these have larger soft handles and are designed to reduce strain on your hand from gripping a small hook for a long period of time.
Knook – this is a long crochet hook with a hole running through one end.
Illuminated hooks – these emit light from the hook, making crochet in the dark possible.
It’s been a while since I last posted – and it’s not because I have no projects completed or on the go, but sheer laziness on my part in taking photos of my work! I am much happier with a hook, or needle in hand than setting the scene and taking the pics! So today, I decided that, come what may, I needed to pick up my handy mobile phone and snap a few shots.
Anyway, back to the Janie Crow CAL which I started a while back – I had ordered the yarn pack for the light colour scheme as the other one was out of stock, but my heart was set on the dark scheme too.
Here is where I got to so far using the original colour scheme (n.b. the CAL is not yet over – we’re still around halfway)
As I could not find the yarn packs in stock for the dark scheme, I opted to find similar shades locally in a different brand of wool (Schachenmayr). Due to the impact of COVID-19 on shipping, not all colours were available, and not wanting to wait for more shipments to arrive, I went with a few alternatives. You can see the outcome below.
I have to say that I much prefer the quality and feel of the Schachenmayr acrylic yarn to the Stylecraft one. It feels a lot softer. The other difference I noted is the Schachenmayr yarn is a little thicker – so the end result is a bit larger – but I don’t mind that and I’m quite happy with the outcome.
I still have quite a stash of yarn, so maybe I will make yet another blanket in a totally different colour scheme of my own design 🙂
If you are following the same CAL, I would love to see your work! Please feel free to share.
Update: Want to see how it all turned out? You can see my finished Fruit Garden blankets here: Fruit Garden CAL – Complete →
Update – September 2026: The original graph pattern I used for this project is no longer available at the link included when I first wrote this post in 2020.
The beach dress was originally based on a Katia graph pattern for a size 8–10 dress. As I found the graph quite difficult to follow, I worked through it and prepared the written, row-by-row version below while making my own dress.
I also experimented with making the dress as one continuous piece rather than creating separate front and back pieces, but after quite a bit of frogging 😊 I found that working the two pieces separately was much easier for maintaining the symmetry. That’s the version I’ve written out below.
I also changed the straps, making fixed straps for my version.
The original Katia graph is no longer available at the link I originally shared, so I’ve removed the broken link. I’ve kept my written version here as part of the Manjri’s Place crochet archive.
Enjoy! 🧶
Crochet hook size used: 3mm and 4mm
Yarn: Katia Jaipur cake
Stitches:
CH – chain stitch SC – single crochet DC – double crochet DC3tog – DC 3 together
We will be making the front and back of the dress (which are identical) separately and then stitch them together at the end.
In addition, the pattern calls for making 4 straps and then stitching them to the back and front pieces.
STRAPS (make 4) Using the 4mm crochet hook and 3 strands of yarn, work a strip of chain stitch measuring 40cm long. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
BACK Using 3mm crochet hook, CH 83.
Row 1: CH 3, DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3, 2nd DC is made in CH 5 from hook) , 38 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 38 DC, DC3tog
Row 2 – 4: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 38 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 38 DC, DC3tog
Row 5: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 20], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 20], SC.
Row 6 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 20], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 21].
Row 7: CH 3, 42 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 43 DC
Row 8: CH 3, 44 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 45 DC
Row 9: CH 3, 46 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 47 DC
Row 10: CH 3, 48 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 49 DC
Row 11: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 25], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 25], SC.
Row 12 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 25], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 26].
Row 13: CH 3, 52 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 53 DC
Row 14: CH 3, 54 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 55 DC
Row 15: CH 3, 56 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 57 DC
Row 16: CH 3, 58 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 59 DC
Row 17: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 30], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 30], SC.
Row 18 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 30], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31].
Row 19: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 61 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 60 DC, DC3tog
Row 20: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 60 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 61 DC, DC3tog
Row 21: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 61 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 60 DC, DC3tog
Row 22: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 60 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 61 DC, DC3tog
Row 23 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 31], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31], SC.
Row 24 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 31], (SC, CH, SC) in next SC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31], SC.
Row 25: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 63 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 62 DC, DC3tog
Row 26: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 62 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 63 DC, DC3tog
Row 27: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 63 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 62 DC, DC3tog
Row 28: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 62 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 63 DC, DC3tog
Row 29 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 32], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 32], SC.
Row 30 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 32], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 32], SC.
Row 31: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 65 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 64 DC, DC3tog
Row 32: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 64 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 65 DC, DC3tog
Row 33: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 65 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 64 DC, DC3tog
Row 34: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 64 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 65 DC, DC3tog
Row 35 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 33], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 33], SC.
Row 36 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 33], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 34].
Row 37: CH 3, 68 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 69 DC
Row 38: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 68 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 68 DC, DC3tog
Row 39: CH 3, 70 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 71 DC
Row 40: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 70 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 70 DC, DC3tog
Row 41 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 36], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 36], SC.
Row 42 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 36], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 36].
Row 43: CH 3, 74 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 75 DC
Row 44: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 74 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 74 DC, DC3tog
Row 45: CH 3, 76 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 77 DC
Row 46: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 76 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 76 DC, DC3tog
Row 47 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 39], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 39], SC.
Row 48 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 39], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 40].
Row 49 – 52: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 78 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 78 DC, DC3tog
Row 53 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 40], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 40], SC.
Row 54 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 40], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 41].
Row 55: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 80 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 80 DC, DC3tog
Row 56 – 58: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 80 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 80 DC, DC3tog
Row 59 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 41], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 41], SC.
Row 60 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 41], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 42].
Row 61: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 82 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 82 DC, DC3tog
Row 62 – 64: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 82 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 82 DC, DC3tog
Row 65 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 42], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 42], SC.
Row 66 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 42], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 43].
Row 67: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 84 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 84 DC, DC3tog
Row 68 – 70: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 84 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 84 DC, DC3tog
FRONT Work the same as the Back.
FINISHING Sew on straps: Attach one strap to each end of the starting row of Front and Back pieces. Sew the sides: align the back and front pieces and sew from end (row 70) up until row 16.
A little note: I originally wrote this post in May 2020, when the Fruit Garden CAL was just getting underway. I’ve kept the original post below as part of my crochet journal, so references to pattern releases and dates reflect what was happening at the time.
I recently came across a post in one of the Facebook crochet groups for a most beautiful Crochet-Along (CAL) project inspired by embroidery works by May Morris, daughter of William Morris. I could not resist – so I signed up, bought the yarn pack and have just started.
As we have just started, only the first part of the pattern has been released, and I can say that it is written very clearly. The designer has also provided a Youtube video, in which she has shared some really good tips. I will surely be applying some of the tips to all my projects henceforth – so very worth taking a look.
Here is my first set of tiles. (Note that these are not blocked yet as we will be blocking them at the end of the project. Also, the threads you see in the corners are actually being used as stitch markers.)
I find the most efficient approach to making multiple tiles in the same pattern is to first do one completely, so you familiarise yourself with the pattern, and then work on the remaining colour by colour. So, in this set, I did one tile completely, and for the remaining 7 tiles, I first crocheted 7 flowers, then did the green background for all 7, then proceeded to do the parchment part. There is no rule about how you should do this, it’s just a matter of preference.
At the time I started the CAL, the pattern was available in two colour recipes, with another version planned for the second run later in 2020. Of course, you could also come up with your own colour combination. I even saw a monochrome version of the tile which someone tried — and it was quite pretty — but I love colours, so it wasn’t for me. 🙂
If you want to give it a try, the pattern remains available to download, free of charge, from the Stylecraft Yarns website here.
Summer is round the corner — so here is my first creation for summer: a stylish multi-coloured beach dress. It’s made using Katia Jaipur Cake cotton yarn.
The original design was based on a pattern published by Katia. The original pattern link is no longer available, but I later prepared my own written version, including the modifications I made:
In a previous post called Pretty Petals Coasters →, I shared a cute coaster pattern. I adapted that to make a little handbag for a little girl.
I made four large coasters and joined two together by crocheting the white outline through both layers. That way, I ended up with two rather sturdy sides. I then joined the two sides together using white yarn.
For the handles, I made simple crochet cords, and to finish, I added snap buttons.
Manjri's Place 