Finally it seems like summer has made her appearance! The temperature here in Malta is in the high 20s (Celsius), there is a nice cool breeze, skies are blue and days are getting longer. No more COVID restrictions – life is good and it’s definitely the best time of the year!
In warmer weather, I normally switch to using cotton yarns for my projects – that way, I can continue crocheting all year round 🙂
I have long wanted to make a granny square sun hat – and finally, I got round to it and have made a few. I used the Flower Sun Hat pattern by Natalie Beard for Hobbycraft, which is available free online: Flower Sun Hat – Free Pattern →
For my hats, I used Katia Menfis yarn and a 3 mm hook.
So, without further ado, here are the hats I have made so far. A great big thanks goes out to Ylenia and Alex for being such good sports and modelling them along with me!
This is just the beginning – I’ve got lots more bucket hats which I have been working on – so keep an eye out for more posts in the coming days.
And, don’t forget to use sunscreen and stay hydrated!
It’s been quite a few years since I last knitted anything, as normally I prefer crochet. But, I came across this lovely yarn, and needed a project to use it for (I know – that’s the wrong order of doing things – i.e. you should have a project in mind, and then you find the material – but I’m sure crafters know exactly what I mean and are likely guilty of the same!)
The yarn I used is Katia Easy Jacquard, which came with a free hat and scarf pattern:
My version is somewhat different, as I wanted a thicker scarf. To achieve that, I worked the whole scarf in rib stitch. My instructions are below.
Instructions:
Using 4.5 mm needles, cast on 46 stitches. Row1: Repeat (K2, P2) to the end of the row. Make as many rows as you like util the scarf is the desired length. (I used the entire ball, and my scarf is pretty long).
This is an ideal pattern to follow while watching your favourite shows – if you are like me, I can’t just sit and watch a show, I have to be doing something as well.
Hope this inspires you to pick up your hooks or needles and get crafting!
I came across a wonderful set of farmyard-inspired tapestry crochet potholders and have been busy as a bee crocheting away a whole range of them – they are simple but really cute.
Here are some of the ones which I have made – they make really cute sets! I always use mercerized cotton for these as it is heat resistant. These are made using either DK or 4-ply cotton and a 4 mm or 3.5 mm crochet hook – of course the 4-ply using the 3.5 mm hook results in a smaller pot holder, but it’s still a pretty decent size.
I have made some others (which are not a set – and you can see them below). I’m not very fond of the goose with the purple background – it does not seem to look as neat as the ones where the background is light.
My next post will also be more potholders – but this time, it’s my own design and they are Grand Prix-inspired 🙂
So stay tuned — and in the meantime, why not try making some of these yourself?
The original Farmhouse Potholders are designed by Raffaella of Raffamusa Designs, and the individual patterns are available free on her website:
Hey fellow crafters! With the weather getting a little warmer, I thought that a nice spring handbag would be a great project – so here is one I made up. I used mercerised cotton DK in 3 colours and a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
Each side of the bag is made by joining 9 granny squares, and then joined by crocheting single crochet through adjacent aligned squares. Below is the pattern of the granny square seen in this bag.
Original bag design and granny square pattern by Manjri’s Place
The granny square pattern
Abbreviations (US terms): CH – chain SC – Single Crochet HDC – Half double crochet DC – Double Crochet TC – Triple Crochet DC2TOG – 2 DC together (for instructions of how to do this please refer to external link) DC3TOG – 3 DC together also known as cluster stitch (for instructions on how to do this, please refer to this external link)
Round 1 : Using grey yarn, in a magic ring, CH, 8SC, join with slip stitch into the 1st SC to complete the ring. (8 stitches) Round 2 : CH, 2SC in each SC from Round 1, all the way round. Join with slip stitch into the 1st SC to complete the ring (16 stitches). Cast off. Round 3 : Using the lilac coloured yarn, join in any SC from Round 2, and CH 2. In the same SC, DC. CH, Repeat (DC2tog in next SC, CH) all the way round. Join with a slip stitch into 2nd chain of the first 2 chains which you started the round with. Cast off. (16 Stitches, 16 spaces) Round 4 : Using the grey yarn, join in any chain space made in Round 3 and CH 2. In the same chain space, DC2tog, and CH 2. Repeat (DC3tog, CH 2) all the way round in each chain space from round 3. Join with a slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the first 2 chains which you started the round with. Cast off. (16 stitches, 16 spaces) Round 5 : Using the white yarn, join in any chain space made in Round 4 and CH 3. In the same chain space, 2 DC. 3 HDC in next chain space. 3 DC in next chain space. (3 TC, CH2, 3TC) in next chain space – this forms the first corner of the granny square. Repeat {3DC in next Chain space, 3HDC in next chain space, 3DC in next chain space, (3TC, CH2, 3TC) in next chain space } 3 times. Join with a slip stitch into 2nd chain of the first 3 chains which you started the round with. Cast off.
Joining
Once you have completed all 18 squares, join them by aligning 2 squares next to each other and using SC to join the corresponding stitches. I used the lilac yarn to do this, but you can choose the colour of your choice. Do this to create 2 panels of 9 squares joined together (one for the back and the other for the front of the bag).
To create some depth in the bag, with the external side facing you, join lilac yarn in any corner or panel and DC in each stitch all the way around 3 of the sides of the panel and cast off – do this for both front and back panels of the bag. Then, place the front and back panels on top of each other, so that the side where there is no DC rows aligned and with the inside of the panels facing you – i.e. this is inside out. Using lilac yarn, join the panels on the 3 sides which you did a row of DC by doing SC through DCs on both panels – i.e. the SC would go through the DC on front and back panel. This way, the join which is created will be on the inside of the bag. Do this all the way round the 3 sides. Do not cast off yet! Turn the bag the right way round. Do SC in each stitch on the edge which is the opening of the bag – this will define the opening of the bag nicely.
Handles
This is always somewhat of a challenge – what handles to make? I decided to try something different and came across a lace-like design – while the pattern is for a much finer yarn, it has worked very well with DK too and I think they make ideal fancy handles! Here is the tutorial of how to make them – though the video is not in English, it is very easy to follow.
I am now off to make some more in other colours! Hope this has inspired you to make your own. Please share and Happy crocheting!
Hey all! Hope you are doing fine and churning out fabulous projects! If you need some inspiration, here is an easy one which I designed and made from nylon crochet thread (the same that I used to make the belt in my previous project ). Again, thanks to the stiff and abrasive nature, it lends itself really well to this pouch / case. The pattern is quite straightforward – it’s mainly single crochet (US Terms). Here is the pattern :
Original pattern by Manjri’s Place
I used a 1.4mm crochet hook for this project.
CH – chain stitch
SC – single crochet
YO – yarn over
Start with 61 CH
Row 1: skip first chain and 1 SC into remaining 60 CH, CH 1 and turn
Row 2-9: 1 SC into each of the 60 SC from previous round, CH 1 and turn.
By the end of the last round, you will now have a rectangular piece, which will be the base of the pouch/case.
Row 10: In this round, you will be working all around the rectangular piece just made. 1 SC into the back loop only of each of the 59 SC from previous round. Make 3 SC in the last SC from previous round. 7 SC down the short side of the rectangle, 3 SC in the first stitch of the long side, 1 SC in each of the next 59 SC, 3 SC in last stitch of long side, 7 SC down the other short side. Slip stitch into the first chain made at end of round 9. CH 1 and turn.
Row 11: SC in the first SC from last round. Place a stitch marker between the CH and the SC just made as it will become hard to identify end of a row since we will be working all around. 4 SC, 3 CH, skip 1 stitch. (5 SC, 3 CH, skip 1 stitch) all the way round – N.B. you will end with 2 or 3 SC. Slip stitch into first CH. Remove stitch marker.
Row 12-13: CH1, SC in the first SC from last round. Place a stitch marker between the CH and the SC just made. 4 SC, 3 CH, skip ch space made in last round. (5 SC, 3 CH, skip 1 stitch) all the way round – N.B. you will end with 2 or 3 SC. Slip stitch into first CH. Remove stitch marker.
Row 14: CH 1, SC in the first SC from last round. Place a stitch marker between the CH and the SC just made. 4 SC, SC over the 3 chain spaces from rows 11-13, into the Stitch skipped in round 11. (5 SC, SC over the 3 chain spaces from rows 11-13, into the Stitch skipped in round 11) all the way round – N.B. you will end with 2 or 3 SC. Slip stitch into first CH. Remove stitch marker.
Rows 15-42: Repeat Rows 11-14 7 more times.
Row 43-47: CH 1, SC in the first SC from last round. Place a stitch marker between the CH and the SC just made. SC into each stitch from row 42. Slip stitch into first CH. Remove Stitch marker. Cast off.
If you would prefer a deeper pouch, repeat rows 11-14 until you get the desired size.
Once ready, sew in a zipper and voila! Your pouch is ready! It’s fantastic for school – but you could also use it as a make-up bag, or for keeping toiletries.
I recently bought some rather nice nylon crochet thread because I really liked the colours. Nylon is quite stiff and abrasive, so you have to be careful what you use it for — but I thought it would be perfect for a belt.
This is a simple free crochet belt pattern, worked mainly in single crochet (US terms). I used a double-layer technique to give the belt some extra structure, and I’ve included step-by-step photos below to show how I worked it.
Original pattern by Manjri’s Place
I used a 1.4mm crochet hook for this project.
CH – chain stitch SC – single crochet
YO – yarn over
Start with 11 CH
Row 1: skip first chain and 1 SC into remaining 10 CH, CH 1 and turn
Row 2: To create a double layer SC, put hook through the back loop only of the SC made on row 1 and also the loop left over from initial chain stitch (see marked image below). Repeat until end of row, CH 1 and turn.
Row 3: From now on, the double layer SC will be easier to make. Insert hook through the leftmost loop in the SC just made on last row, and in the remaining loop in the corresponding stitch in the previous row. Repeat until end of the row, CH 1 and turn.
Keep working this way until you reach the desired length.
For the buckle, I used 2 brass hoops, recycled from an old handbag.
Hope this has given you some ideas!
Happy crocheting!
Where the crochet journey led… This pattern comes from the earlier days of Manjri’s Place. Years of experimenting with crochet, colour and different techniques eventually grew into Studio Manjri, my creative studio in Malta, where I now make handmade crochet creations, accessories and plenty of other little ideas that begin with a hook and some yarn.
Hey everyone! Hope you are all enjoying summer and safe! I might have mentioned once or twice, or a hundred times that I love winter – I am totally a winter person. I love being able to snuggle with soft, warm woolly things – so it is no surprise that I make a lot of winter projects.
Firstly, a little disclaimer about the title of this post and the name of this pattern i.e. “The Virus Shawl” – this name and pattern has been around for years and has nothing to do with COVID-19.
I have made a few shawls so far, but it’s always been a challenge to properly showcase these without a model. I have asked politely, then begged and even tried to bribe my lovely daughter into being my model – but with no luck. So, I now am a proud owner of a mannequin!
Here is one of the shawls that I made. There are several free versions of the Virus Shawl pattern available online. If you’d like to try making one yourself, Hobbii has a free version with a detailed visual guide and video tutorials:
Update – September 2026: The original graph pattern I used for this project is no longer available at the link included when I first wrote this post in 2020.
The beach dress was originally based on a Katia graph pattern for a size 8–10 dress. As I found the graph quite difficult to follow, I worked through it and prepared the written, row-by-row version below while making my own dress.
I also experimented with making the dress as one continuous piece rather than creating separate front and back pieces, but after quite a bit of frogging 😊 I found that working the two pieces separately was much easier for maintaining the symmetry. That’s the version I’ve written out below.
I also changed the straps, making fixed straps for my version.
The original Katia graph is no longer available at the link I originally shared, so I’ve removed the broken link. I’ve kept my written version here as part of the Manjri’s Place crochet archive.
Enjoy! 🧶
Crochet hook size used: 3mm and 4mm
Yarn: Katia Jaipur cake
Stitches:
CH – chain stitch SC – single crochet DC – double crochet DC3tog – DC 3 together
We will be making the front and back of the dress (which are identical) separately and then stitch them together at the end.
In addition, the pattern calls for making 4 straps and then stitching them to the back and front pieces.
STRAPS (make 4) Using the 4mm crochet hook and 3 strands of yarn, work a strip of chain stitch measuring 40cm long. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
BACK Using 3mm crochet hook, CH 83.
Row 1: CH 3, DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3, 2nd DC is made in CH 5 from hook) , 38 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 38 DC, DC3tog
Row 2 – 4: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 38 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 38 DC, DC3tog
Row 5: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 20], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 20], SC.
Row 6 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 20], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 21].
Row 7: CH 3, 42 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 43 DC
Row 8: CH 3, 44 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 45 DC
Row 9: CH 3, 46 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 47 DC
Row 10: CH 3, 48 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 49 DC
Row 11: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 25], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 25], SC.
Row 12 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 25], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 26].
Row 13: CH 3, 52 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 53 DC
Row 14: CH 3, 54 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 55 DC
Row 15: CH 3, 56 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 57 DC
Row 16: CH 3, 58 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 59 DC
Row 17: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 30], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 30], SC.
Row 18 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 30], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31].
Row 19: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 61 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 60 DC, DC3tog
Row 20: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 60 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 61 DC, DC3tog
Row 21: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 61 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 60 DC, DC3tog
Row 22: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 60 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 61 DC, DC3tog
Row 23 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 31], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31], SC.
Row 24 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 31], (SC, CH, SC) in next SC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31], SC.
Row 25: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 63 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 62 DC, DC3tog
Row 26: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 62 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 63 DC, DC3tog
Row 27: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 63 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 62 DC, DC3tog
Row 28: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 62 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 63 DC, DC3tog
Row 29 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 32], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 32], SC.
Row 30 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 32], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 32], SC.
Row 31: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 65 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 64 DC, DC3tog
Row 32: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 64 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 65 DC, DC3tog
Row 33: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 65 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 64 DC, DC3tog
Row 34: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 64 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 65 DC, DC3tog
Row 35 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 33], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 33], SC.
Row 36 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 33], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 34].
Row 37: CH 3, 68 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 69 DC
Row 38: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 68 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 68 DC, DC3tog
Row 39: CH 3, 70 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 71 DC
Row 40: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 70 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 70 DC, DC3tog
Row 41 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 36], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 36], SC.
Row 42 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 36], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 36].
Row 43: CH 3, 74 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 75 DC
Row 44: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 74 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 74 DC, DC3tog
Row 45: CH 3, 76 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 77 DC
Row 46: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 76 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 76 DC, DC3tog
Row 47 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 39], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 39], SC.
Row 48 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 39], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 40].
Row 49 – 52: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 78 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 78 DC, DC3tog
Row 53 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 40], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 40], SC.
Row 54 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 40], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 41].
Row 55: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 80 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 80 DC, DC3tog
Row 56 – 58: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 80 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 80 DC, DC3tog
Row 59 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 41], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 41], SC.
Row 60 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 41], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 42].
Row 61: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 82 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 82 DC, DC3tog
Row 62 – 64: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 82 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 82 DC, DC3tog
Row 65 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 42], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 42], SC.
Row 66 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 42], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 43].
Row 67: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 84 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 84 DC, DC3tog
Row 68 – 70: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 84 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 84 DC, DC3tog
FRONT Work the same as the Back.
FINISHING Sew on straps: Attach one strap to each end of the starting row of Front and Back pieces. Sew the sides: align the back and front pieces and sew from end (row 70) up until row 16.
A little note: I originally wrote this post in May 2020, when the Fruit Garden CAL was just getting underway. I’ve kept the original post below as part of my crochet journal, so references to pattern releases and dates reflect what was happening at the time.
I recently came across a post in one of the Facebook crochet groups for a most beautiful Crochet-Along (CAL) project inspired by embroidery works by May Morris, daughter of William Morris. I could not resist – so I signed up, bought the yarn pack and have just started.
As we have just started, only the first part of the pattern has been released, and I can say that it is written very clearly. The designer has also provided a Youtube video, in which she has shared some really good tips. I will surely be applying some of the tips to all my projects henceforth – so very worth taking a look.
Here is my first set of tiles. (Note that these are not blocked yet as we will be blocking them at the end of the project. Also, the threads you see in the corners are actually being used as stitch markers.)
I find the most efficient approach to making multiple tiles in the same pattern is to first do one completely, so you familiarise yourself with the pattern, and then work on the remaining colour by colour. So, in this set, I did one tile completely, and for the remaining 7 tiles, I first crocheted 7 flowers, then did the green background for all 7, then proceeded to do the parchment part. There is no rule about how you should do this, it’s just a matter of preference.
At the time I started the CAL, the pattern was available in two colour recipes, with another version planned for the second run later in 2020. Of course, you could also come up with your own colour combination. I even saw a monochrome version of the tile which someone tried — and it was quite pretty — but I love colours, so it wasn’t for me. 🙂
If you want to give it a try, the pattern remains available to download, free of charge, from the Stylecraft Yarns website here.
