This hat is such a hit that I’ve made a whole bunch more in different colours! What colour will you wear ? I call dibs on the red one – ha ha ha!
I would like to give a shout-out to my model, Ms Halle “Bearry” – she has been most cooperative and professional! Don’t you think she rocks these bonnets?
Here is the pattern if you want to make your own!
I used the Horatio Cool Bonnet pattern from Lovely Loops as the base for the bonnet:
The frog eyes and straps are my own additions, and I’ve included my patterns for them below. The instructions use US crochet terms. I used DK yarn and a 4 mm hook.
The eyes & straps patterns are my own and here they are (using US Terms). I used DK yarn and a size 4mm hook.
Terms:
CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 together
DC2TOG – Double Crochet 2 Together
SS – Slip Stitch
THE EYES
Round 1: Using black yarn, in a magic loop, and make 8 HDC. Join with SS. and cast off. (8 HDC)
Round 2: Join white yarn into any HDC made in Round 1 and make 2 DC into each HDC from the previous round all the way around. Join to the first DC with SS. (16 DC). Fasten off. (16 DC). Cast off.
Round 3: Using yarn in the colour you made your bonnet, join yarn into any DC with CH. 2SC into same stitch, SC into next stitch. *2SC into next DC, SC into next DC* all the way round and join with SS. (24 SC)
Rounds 4-5 : CH 2, DC in each SC from last round, join with SS.
Round 6: CH 1, * SC2TOG, SC * all the way round and join with SS (16 stitches)
At this point, stuff the eye with stuffing (it could be fiberfill, cotton or yarn bits). I don’t like to firmly pack mine as I like the eyes to be a bit squidgy – but it’s entirely up to you how you decide to do yours.
Round 7: CH 1, DC2TOG all the way round and join with SS (8 stitches)
Round 8: CH 1, DC2TOG all the way round and join with SS (4 stitches)
At this point, if you see that there is still a bit of a gap that needs closing, just thread the tail into a needle and sew the hole closed.
You will need to make 2 of these and then stitch them onto the bonnet.
THE STRAPS
For the straps, I simply made 101 CH, and then from 2nd CH stitch from the hook, made HDC in each CH to the end. Cast off and sew in the ends. I made 2 of these and simply threaded them into each corner of the border of the bonnet and tied a simple knot 🙂 You could, of course, use a different method.
Have a great time making these hats – and why not share a selfie modelling your creation!
I’ve been awfully quiet lately because I have been very busy working on my biggest project to date – and it is now done! But, more on that in a future post – after I take some good photos – so stay tuned and check back soon!
This week, my daughter showed me a really cute frog hat she came across for sale online and asked me if I could make one for her. Of course! I’m always up for a challenge and after “frogging it” a few times (pun totally intended – ha ha!) here it is! I really had fun making this and will be making some more 🙂
Some notes on the design: firstly, it is 100% crochet, including the ribbing you see in the photo. It’s quite common to see ribbing in knitting projects, and for all you “crocheters”, who also knit, the concept is the same. I’ll try to describe it here. I used HDC – Half-double crochet (US terms). Here is an example of how to do this – you can adapt to your own projects. To start this, you need a foundation row, so let’s say we have a row of 6 DC (Double crochet) already done. Here are the following rows:
Row 1: CH2, Repeat (FPHDC {Front Post HDC}, BPHDC {Back Post HDC}) x 3. Turn. Row 2: CH2, Repeat (BPHDC, FPHDC) x 3. Turn. Rows 3 onwards : Repeat from Row 1 until you reach the desired length.
Simple! Might be an idea to experiment with using DC instead of HDC – let me know how you get on. Till then, peace out folks!
I recently bought some rather nice nylon crochet thread because I really liked the colours. Nylon is quite stiff and abrasive, so you have to be careful what you use it for — but I thought it would be perfect for a belt.
This is a simple free crochet belt pattern, worked mainly in single crochet (US terms). I used a double-layer technique to give the belt some extra structure, and I’ve included step-by-step photos below to show how I worked it.
Original pattern by Manjri’s Place
I used a 1.4mm crochet hook for this project.
CH – chain stitch SC – single crochet
YO – yarn over
Start with 11 CH
Row 1: skip first chain and 1 SC into remaining 10 CH, CH 1 and turn
Row 2: To create a double layer SC, put hook through the back loop only of the SC made on row 1 and also the loop left over from initial chain stitch (see marked image below). Repeat until end of row, CH 1 and turn.
Row 3: From now on, the double layer SC will be easier to make. Insert hook through the leftmost loop in the SC just made on last row, and in the remaining loop in the corresponding stitch in the previous row. Repeat until end of the row, CH 1 and turn.
Keep working this way until you reach the desired length.
For the buckle, I used 2 brass hoops, recycled from an old handbag.
Hope this has given you some ideas!
Happy crocheting!
Where the crochet journey led… This pattern comes from the earlier days of Manjri’s Place. Years of experimenting with crochet, colour and different techniques eventually grew into Studio Manjri, my creative studio in Malta, where I now make handmade crochet creations, accessories and plenty of other little ideas that begin with a hook and some yarn.
Update — September 2026: I originally shared this project in 2020, when the Seaside Wrap pattern was available free. The pattern is no longer available free, but I’ve kept this post as part of my crochet archive and to share my version of the wrap.
I came across this beautiful boho-inspired wrap and decided to make my own version. I used a different yarn and hook size, which explains the difference in size from the original — but I loved how it turned out!
As you can see, it can be worn 2-ways:
1 – over the shoulders as a wrap,
2 – as a skirt-wrap – perfect for the beach.
The original design is the Seaside Wrap. The pattern is no longer available free, but you can still find the pattern page on Ravelry here: Seaside Wrap pattern
Hope this gives you a little inspiration for your own summer crochet projects. 😊
Hey everyone! Hope you are all enjoying summer and safe! I might have mentioned once or twice, or a hundred times that I love winter – I am totally a winter person. I love being able to snuggle with soft, warm woolly things – so it is no surprise that I make a lot of winter projects.
Firstly, a little disclaimer about the title of this post and the name of this pattern i.e. “The Virus Shawl” – this name and pattern has been around for years and has nothing to do with COVID-19.
I have made a few shawls so far, but it’s always been a challenge to properly showcase these without a model. I have asked politely, then begged and even tried to bribe my lovely daughter into being my model – but with no luck. So, I now am a proud owner of a mannequin!
Here is one of the shawls that I made. There are several free versions of the Virus Shawl pattern available online. If you’d like to try making one yourself, Hobbii has a free version with a detailed visual guide and video tutorials:
Update – September 2026: The original graph pattern I used for this project is no longer available at the link included when I first wrote this post in 2020.
The beach dress was originally based on a Katia graph pattern for a size 8–10 dress. As I found the graph quite difficult to follow, I worked through it and prepared the written, row-by-row version below while making my own dress.
I also experimented with making the dress as one continuous piece rather than creating separate front and back pieces, but after quite a bit of frogging 😊 I found that working the two pieces separately was much easier for maintaining the symmetry. That’s the version I’ve written out below.
I also changed the straps, making fixed straps for my version.
The original Katia graph is no longer available at the link I originally shared, so I’ve removed the broken link. I’ve kept my written version here as part of the Manjri’s Place crochet archive.
Enjoy! 🧶
Crochet hook size used: 3mm and 4mm
Yarn: Katia Jaipur cake
Stitches:
CH – chain stitch SC – single crochet DC – double crochet DC3tog – DC 3 together
We will be making the front and back of the dress (which are identical) separately and then stitch them together at the end.
In addition, the pattern calls for making 4 straps and then stitching them to the back and front pieces.
STRAPS (make 4) Using the 4mm crochet hook and 3 strands of yarn, work a strip of chain stitch measuring 40cm long. Cut the yarn and fasten off.
BACK Using 3mm crochet hook, CH 83.
Row 1: CH 3, DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3, 2nd DC is made in CH 5 from hook) , 38 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 38 DC, DC3tog
Row 2 – 4: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 38 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 38 DC, DC3tog
Row 5: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 20], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 20], SC.
Row 6 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 20], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 21].
Row 7: CH 3, 42 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 43 DC
Row 8: CH 3, 44 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 45 DC
Row 9: CH 3, 46 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 47 DC
Row 10: CH 3, 48 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 49 DC
Row 11: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 25], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 25], SC.
Row 12 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 25], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 26].
Row 13: CH 3, 52 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 53 DC
Row 14: CH 3, 54 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 55 DC
Row 15: CH 3, 56 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 57 DC
Row 16: CH 3, 58 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 59 DC
Row 17: CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 30], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 30], SC.
Row 18 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 30], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31].
Row 19: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 61 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 60 DC, DC3tog
Row 20: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 60 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 61 DC, DC3tog
Row 21: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 61 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 60 DC, DC3tog
Row 22: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 60 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 61 DC, DC3tog
Row 23 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 31], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31], SC.
Row 24 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 31], (SC, CH, SC) in next SC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 31], SC.
Row 25: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 63 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 62 DC, DC3tog
Row 26: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 62 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 63 DC, DC3tog
Row 27: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 63 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 62 DC, DC3tog
Row 28: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 62 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 63 DC, DC3tog
Row 29 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 32], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 32], SC.
Row 30 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 32], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 32], SC.
Row 31: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 65 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 64 DC, DC3tog
Row 32: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 64 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 65 DC, DC3tog
Row 33: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 65 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 64 DC, DC3tog
Row 34: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 64 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 65 DC, DC3tog
Row 35 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 33], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 33], SC.
Row 36 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 33], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 34].
Row 37: CH 3, 68 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 69 DC
Row 38: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 68 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 68 DC, DC3tog
Row 39: CH 3, 70 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 71 DC
Row 40: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 70 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 70 DC, DC3tog
Row 41 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 36], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 36], SC.
Row 42 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 36], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 36].
Row 43: CH 3, 74 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 75 DC
Row 44: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 74 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 74 DC, DC3tog
Row 45: CH 3, 76 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 77 DC
Row 46: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 76 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 76 DC, DC3tog
Row 47 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 39], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 39], SC.
Row 48 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 39], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 40].
Row 49 – 52: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 78 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 78 DC, DC3tog
Row 53 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 40], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 40], SC.
Row 54 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 40], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 41].
Row 55: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 80 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 80 DC, DC3tog
Row 56 – 58: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 80 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 80 DC, DC3tog
Row 59 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 41], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 41], SC.
Row 60 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 41], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 42].
Row 61: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 82 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 82 DC, DC3tog
Row 62 – 64: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 82 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 82 DC, DC3tog
Row 65 : CH, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 42], (SC, CH, SC) in next DC, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 42], SC.
Row 66 : CH, SC, [(SC, CH, skip DC) x 42], (SC, CH, SC) in next CH, [(CH, skip DC, SC) X 43].
Row 67: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 84 DC, 5 DC in next CH, 84 DC, DC3tog
Row 68 – 70: DC3tog (1st DC is CH 3) , 84 DC, 5 DC in next DC, 84 DC, DC3tog
FRONT Work the same as the Back.
FINISHING Sew on straps: Attach one strap to each end of the starting row of Front and Back pieces. Sew the sides: align the back and front pieces and sew from end (row 70) up until row 16.
Summer is round the corner — so here is my first creation for summer: a stylish multi-coloured beach dress. It’s made using Katia Jaipur Cake cotton yarn.
The original design was based on a pattern published by Katia. The original pattern link is no longer available, but I later prepared my own written version, including the modifications I made:
I love winter, and it is slowly on its way in 🙂 One of the things I love about winter is the clothes – those warm, soft & fluffy woolies, in which you wrap up tight. So, here is my first project in preparation for this season : the infinity scarf.
I love infinity scarves as they are so versatile and you can wear them in many ways.
For this one, I have used a variegated yarn by Katia which has a gold thread running through it, but you can use any yarn of your choice. As for stitch choice, I used the puff stitch because it forms double-sided bobbles that are both thick and fluffy – just what you want for your scarf.
This is a really easy project, and in case you have not made a puff stitch before, here is an explanation :
Step 1 : – Start by making a chain ( it should be in multiples of 2 stitches plus 4) till it is as wide as you would like your scarf to be.
Step 2: – Once you have made the chain, yarn over hook and insert the hook into the 4th chain from hook. Yarn over again and draw up a loop. You should have three loops on your hook. ** Yarn over hook and insert the hook into the same 4th chain from hook. Yarn over again and draw up a loop. Repeat from ** once more. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. (N.B. some people will even make puff stitches with 9 or 11 loops – it’s totally up to you – but I opted for 7.)
Step 3 : – Yarn over and draw the yarn through all the loops. This is your Puff Stitch.
Step 4: – With the loop pulled through the puff stitch, make a single chain to secure your Puff stitch.
Step 5: – Skip 1 chain stitch and make your next puff stitch in the next chain stitch. Repeat till you get to the end of the chain. You should end the row with a puff stitch.
Step 6: – At the end of your row, flip your work and make 3 chain stitches.
Step 7:- For all subsequent rows, make your puff stitches in the chain-1 space from the previous row.
Repeat till the scarf is as long as you like. Once done, I joined the last row to the initial row with slip stitches – but you can sew this if you prefer.
